Stockbridge Handbook 1993-1994
A 68-page handbook containing adverts, a brief history of Stockbridge, a comprehensive directory and a schematic map of Stockbridge High Street.
STOCKBRIDGE – A Brief History
STOCKBRIDGE is a Borough, with a Town Hall and, in 1993, about 570 inhabitants. It lies along the road the Romans built from London to Exeter (now the A30). The High Street and houses each side are on a wide causeway, made of chalk and bundles of withies, over the marshy valley of the River Test. The bundles of withies were found when excavations were made for main water and drainage supply in the mid 1960’s.
There has been a settlement here since at least 800AD, but it is likely that there have been dwellings since Roman days, some 500 years earlier. In the Domesday Book (1086) it is named STOCKE (Anglo-Saxon: STOCC: a tree trunk, hence: a structure of timber/a line of descent/a collection of domestic animals etc). In 1189 STOCKE was granted the right to hold a weekly market. In 1221 came the right to hold an annual fair and this continued for over 700 years, until 1932. Many local people can remember the erection of the pens for the animals behind the Grosvenor Hotel and the excitement of the fair in the High Street. In 1316 it is referred to as STOCBRIGGE (Old Norse: BRYGGJA: a gangway). Evidently there was, by now, a bridge, probably of wood, since an inscription on today’s bridge refers to a stone bridge, new about 1450, giving the names of the lady and her two husbands who paid for its erection. This picturesque narrow hump-backed bridge, the cause of many an accident in this century, was replaced only in 1963. In 1141 there was a ford and it was there (or some say, in the Church, whither he had fled for Sanctuary) that Robert of Gloucester, Queen Matilda’s half-brother and champion, was captured by King Stephen’s forces as he defended the route of his sister’s flight from Winchester to Gloucester. Later, he and Stephen, who had been taken prisoner by the Queen earlier, were exchanged. Reference to this and other events in the area is made in Ellis Peter’s book “An Excellent Mystery“.
At the east end of Stockbridge, beside the White Hart Inn, lie the remains of ’old’ St Peter’s Church, in its graveyard. This Church was built in the 12th Century on the site of an even earlier West Saxon foundation. From then until 1842 Stockbridge was a curacy of King’s Somborne Parish, which was the ’head-minster’ for the area. In 1842, however, it became a Parish in its own right and about twenty years later it was decided that a new church would be built near the Grosvenor Hotel. The demolition of all but the Chancel was done between 1863 and 1865. It had been a large church with seating for over 250. A photograph of it can be seen in St Peter’s. Many of the stones, window frames and fittings were transferred (it is said, by the parishioners with barrows, to save money) to the new site. Old St Peter’s is still in use and contains items of interest; in particular, some Elizabeth I Cyphers on the walls (covered for many years by whitewash) and two slate tombstones of the Pyle family, who lived at Marsh Court Manor in the 18th Century. These last were found buried outside the north wall when the Rector, many parishioners and Mr Kevin Stubbs of the Diocesan Advisory Committee spent many voluntary hours repairing and digging there between 1991 and 1993. They were helped by generous grants and donations, so this work was at no monetary expense to the congregation, who were thereby able to concentrate their fund-raising efforts for St Peter’s. Old St Peter’s was re-dedicated in 1991. From 1990 to 1993 extensive work has been done on St Peter’s and it is now in better condition than it has been for over a hundred years. The Appeal Fund is still open for other necessary work. Several original window frames can be seen (the glass dates from 1867 onwards when the new church was dedicated), also the 12th Century Purbeck Stone Font and the carved stone crucifix above the Lady Chapel altar, believed by the eminent historian, Professor Rosalind Hill, to date from around 1100AD. Both churches contain information sheets for visitors to read.
STOCKBRIDGE still holds one of the few remaining pre-Norman, Courts Leet & Baron. Burgesses are elected to a Jury and they, presided over by the Lord of the Manor, decide, every March, when the Borough’s common land will be open to all burgesses for the pasturage of their livestock, for a nominal fee. The land in question comprises Stockbridge Down, at the top of Winchester Hill, where sheep may be grazed and the Common March, about 80 acres to the south of the High Street, where cattle and horses may be pastured. Both these areas are open to the public. A branch of the River Test runs along the side of the Marsh. All fishing rights in Stockbridge are privately owned.
The Lordship of the Manor of Stockbridge can be traced back to 1066 when it was owned by Tol the Dane. It was granted to the Brivert family by Richard I and stayed with their descendants for a hundred years, when it passed to the mother of the first Duke of Lancaster and so to Blanche, wife of John of Gaunt and to their son Henry IV, when it became Crown Property once again for 450 years. It was then bought by one of Stockbridge’s two Members of Parliament, Joseph Foster Barham (his tomb is right of the path in the old graveyard). It passed through various hands until, in 1902, the owner pledged it to a London pawnbroker, who sold it in 1922 to Sir Norman Hill. It was inherited by his daughter, Professor Rosalind Hill, who has done much of the research on Stockbridge’s history. In 1947 Professor Hill presented it to the National Trust, so that Burgesses’ rights may be continued in perpetuity. Miss Hill, now Quondam Lady of the Manor, presides over the Courts Leet & Baron each year.
The Elizabeth I Cyphers in the old church may have some connection with the fact that she granted the right to Stockbridge to return two Members of Parliament. Over the next 200 years or so, local Hampshire men filled these seats, but then Stockbridge became a Managed Borough. That is, a Bailiff negotiated with prospective candidates on behalf of the 100 or so electors, to see how much they were willing to pay for each vote. John Buckett, landlord of the King’s Head Inn, negotiated the top figure of £60 per vote and his tomb, with verse, may be seen on the left side of the path in the graveyard.
Many of Stockbridge’s treasures and possessions were election bribes over the years: the 1681 large silver Mace and the silver Seal, used by the Courts Leet & Baron: the 26oz silver-gilt Chalice, dated 1697 and the silver Paten (1700) used for Communion until comparatively recently, are just some of the treasures. Naturally, none of these is now kept in Stockbridge. Sir Richard Steele, one of the Members, was warned that he needn’t stand again as he had failed to send the promised ’apple stuck with guineas’ to the Bailiffs wife. Another bribe, still in daily use, is the Town Hall, built and presented in 1790 by MP Joseph Barham, who has been mentioned before. He also built some rows of cottages at right angles to the High Street (for the accommodation of voters?) but these have now all been condemned, demolished and not replaced. This, and the fact that many of Stockbridge’s Council Houses were built on Salisbury Hill (and are thus not in Stockbridge; the river is the boundary) account for the fact that the population is now almost half what it was even thirty years ago. Stockbridge no longer has any Member of Parliament, since it was disenfranchised by the Reform Bill of 1832. The Town Hall was dedicated for Services during the building of St Peter’s and subsequently used as a school, but it was re-acquired for the Borough by Mrs Letitia Hurford of Little Dean House in 1900. Her memorials may be seen in St Peter’s. In the past ten years the Town Hall has been carefully overhauled and is in constant use for Plays, Concerts, Lectures, Sales, Fairs, Clubs and Receptions etc.
In addition to the two St Peter’s Churches, Stockbridge also has a Baptist Chapel with a new hall and St Thomas More Roman Catholic Church, which lies behind Rosalind Hill House. The Chapel is opposite. The Grosvenor Hotel is the Headquarters of the renowned Houghton Fishing Club – the oldest such club in the world. Membership is limited to 24 members. The Club owns nearly all the fishing in and around Stockbridge and down to Houghton, even where the river and its carriers flow through private gardens. Trout may often be seen in the streams and pools in the High Street; they may be fed but not caught! Today, Stockbridge has gradually lost all but three or four of its original thirteen Inns and Taverns. Nearly all are now private houses. What it has gained, however, may be seen in another part of this booklet. All these many businesses are helped by the considerable passing trade. Parking is free.
Just across the river, down Houghton Road, beyond the Carbery Guest House, is a group of cottages, all now privately owned. The first, The Cossack, dates from 1740 and was an Inn until 1966. It was named for a well-known local racehorse ’’Cossacks’. Next door is what used to be this inn’s stables. In them were kept some carthorses which were hired, with a boy to ride each one, to west-bound coaches. The horse was attached in front of the normal team and it helped to drag the coach up Salisbury Hill. These leading horses were called ’cock-horses’. Banbury also has a steep hill. The last cottage in the group is the oldest house in the area, probably 12th Century in part: The Drovers House. Here, in medieval days, Welsh Drovers stayed, with their sheep or cattle on adjacent land, as they made their slow way from South Wales to the coast, to sell the animals to the Royal Navy on behalf of the various owners in Wales. The painted inscription, listing the facilities available, is in Old Welsh. Opposite stands Hermit Lodge, named after another racehorse, Hermit, which won the Derby in 1877 in a snowstorm at 100 to 1. In the late 19th Century, this house was rented annually for Stockbridge Races by the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). The house on the opposite bank, once Grosvenor House, but now the White House, was engaged for Miss Lillie Langtry. The gardens are connected by a private bridge.
Stockbridge Racecourse, near Danebury Hill, was closed around 1900, when part of it was inherited by someone who disapproved of racing. The derelict grandstand can still be seen. Professor Hill tells us that it was, for a while, used as a catholic church. In their day, Stockbridge Races ranked for fashion with Ascot and Goodwood. The training stables at Chattis Hill continued for many years and strings were often to be seen in the High Street on their way to Stockbridge Down. Another horse is commemorated in St Peter’s. Above the vestry doorway is a painting of ’Tetrarch’. He was never beaten and his time for five furlongs still stood in 1960 and maybe longer.
Danebury Iron Age Fort (turn right half-way up Salisbury Hill) may be visited without charge.
The Test Way long-distance footpath can be joined near the White Hart. It follows the line of the old ’Sprat & Winkle’ railway, unfortunately closed in 1966 by Dr Beeching.
Stockbridge makes an excellent centre for visiting Southampton, Winchester, Salisbury, Romsey, Andover and the New Forest. It has been used to welcoming visitors for 1200 years!
Creator
Rosalind HillDate of creation
1993Date of coverage
1993-1994Place
StockbridgeLanguage
EnglishReference number
AQ22631Storage location
OneDriveFormat
Area
Subject
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